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Clamour for luxury

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Vienna's luxury fair took place for the fourth time



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Austria's annual Luxury, please! fair proved yet again that there can never be enough beautiful things: For the fourth time the royal halls of Vienna's Hofburg imperial palace became a gallery for all things refined and those that make a statement. The event was buzzing: lively conversations in front of artworks by Andy Warhol, champagne bubbles in the lounge room, and designers rushing back and forth from their stands to the fitting rooms made the exposition busy and exciting. Who else could cover the event but our guest writer Polina Povarich from Belarus.


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The fair started in 2006, and in a short span of three years grew into a well-rounded international event. Alongside a fine selection of Austrian luxury-makers, the event attracted many international brands. The spectrum of goods was impressive – guests of the fair could view all types of luxurious objects, ranging from art to jewellery, clothing and shoes, from transport to interior design. A distinctive feature was the abundance of colour. It was found in Dadaist glass sculptures, graphic paintings, as well as furry and slightly naïve bags and accessories by the Italian label Mucca Pazza , among others.


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Mucca Pazza

Another tendency could be summed up as organic futurism. Cars, décor pieces and household objects adhered to the neutral and elegant palette of understated matted metallic, cream and white hues as well as nature-inspired shades. This subtlety also read through the shapes, which paid tribute to an idea of user-friendly and nature-conscious silhouettes and substance, like kitchens, gardening ammunition and especially – lamps and other light objects by the Austrian producers Woka.


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A cocktail of fashion, art and sustainable approach was presented by the gowns of the New-York based artist/designer Nikos Floros. His voluminous and elegant dresses with historically-inspired silhouettes aren’t made of fabric but from strips of aluminium cans. Hence the bright colours and a shiny effect. The garments were scattered throughout the exhibition, reminding visitors that luxury is not only about expensive items, but also about groundbreaking ideas.


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Nikos Floros



One of the brands which stole the show was Austrian label Callisti . Designer Martina Müller created a couture collection especially for this year’s Luxury, please. The gowns, mostly eveningwear, made of the finest quality materials, were designed to present their wearer in the best possible light. Martina described the lady wearing her garments as a confident business-woman with a strong sense of personal style: how else could one pull it off with some of these show-stopping, floor-sweeping, sequined, Swarovski-beaded, feather-embroidered gowns. The other part of the collection was more playful, and could be worn not only to the red carpet, but also to a cocktail party, art exhibition opening or any other occasion which requires a strong style, yet calls for more convenience.


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Martina Müller, Callisti



Austrian shoemakers Sheer presented an interactive workshop space. It had on exhibit not only custom-made and fully hand-crafted shoes, it also invited visitors to take part in the fascinating process of crafting a shoe. Everybody knows, just what a good piece of footwear means for both the style and the mood, and these truly couture boots could, probably, make every foot feel golden, if not platinum. It takes from 60 hours to one week (and a few thousand euros) to get a pair crafted for true shoe connoisseurs.


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Sheer


Berlin-based eyewear label Mykita displayed a 2010 collection of shades and glasses for all occasions, which varied in styles and shapes. A youthful golden/purple series was presented, as well as some clear-in-shape and slightly vintage in feel glasses. The label was founded six years ago and shows its top-notch eyewear in Paris.


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Mykita



Bag label Lydia in St. Petersburg showed finely-crafted items, made out of leather and silk. The silk with its beautiful floral patterns is treated with special chemicals, which makes every bag unique and adds personality to it. This hand candy is meant not just for one season, and is more than simply a fashion item.


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Lydia St. Petersburg



St. Petersburg wasn’t the only Russian reference of the event: this year it seemed to have a distinct Russian touch, including a fashion show by the Moscow-based designer Terexov (Alexander Terekhov) and a Russian night. Deluxe. Other activities took the guests to the hot nightspots of Vienna for a full-scale exclusive experience. Because (as we all should know) luxury is more than the objects to own – it is a lifestyle to live. 



Text: Polina Povarich
Freelance journalist and fashion theoretician who currently works on a PhD about fashion and modern culture magazines.


Images: Florian Schadauer









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