Show Angewandte 2015
A Show defining the young fashion scene in Austria, in the inaugural year of Hussein Chalayan
Arguably the biggest performance of the fashion season in Austria - the graduation of the final year Angewandte students and the end of year for the preceding classes, invited even more attention this year, even in comparison to its usual annual uproar. The recently appointed new head of the fashion department - Hussein Chalayan stirred the muddy waters of the young design scene and introduced a sleeker, more refined taste to the creative output of his pupils.
The Show 2015 took over the completely sold out Kunsthalle Wien, moving right into the epicentre of the cultural, social, and artistic core of the city. A glossy white runway backed by an exposed slab of concrete was all that made up the mise-en-scene of the Show, giving it a much welcomed polished and to-the-point look. Thanks to the seamless continuation of the collections, all being grouped by year of study, one could take in the startling variety and eclectic talent, each forging their own path and yet each so very similar in their inventiveness and clear attention to holding up a theme, diffusing inspirations, and applying theory.
The star of the show this year seems to have been one of the four graduating diploma students- Dimitrije Gojkovic, who took home the coveted Rondo Vöslauer Fashion Prize, and who with his collection- ‘New Wool’, captured the hearts of many. The natural harmony of the collection, its soft colours and stellar cutting made for pieces which turned heritage into the new minimalism. Gojkovic also popped-up in our Another Austria exhibition in London in 2013, when his shoe creations appeared in the main exhibit editorial photo-shoot.
Kenneth Izedonmwen, another diploma graduate who also shared the Fred-Adlmüller-Scolarship with the 3d year Simon Grundtner, came out with a collection heavily resting on Nigerian influences and styles, sneaking in raw touches, flowing fabrics and great colour matching. His talent made an impression in London too, during the 2015 International Fashion Showcase where his work was presented as a part of the Nigerian showcase.
Jackie Whajung Lee
The remaining two final years - Isis Flatz and Jackie Whajung Lee both cemented their own personal aesthetics too, seeing Isis brilliantly construct her knitwear pieces with loads of textures and colour pops. Jackie’s silk pijamas in delicate prints, hugging the bodies and being fluid like, contrasted stunningly with Isis’s heavier designs.
The collections of the other study years showed a parallel diversity, putting out anything from French refinement by Mila Petrova, a relaxed sporty elegance by Christoph Tsetinis, urban influences of Nora Krepart or a 70s silhouette with a highly international feel by Melanie Zwifl. The last award of the evening presented by Indie Magazine went to Yuhei Mukai for his Japanese inspired collection, drawing on his own heritage.
Wrapping it all up was the grand finale, fusing all the young designers and their collections together, one after the other, in a spectacle of colour, texture, style, influences, and anything in between. The aesthetic touch and guidance of Chalayan is already detectable, especially on the designs of the first two years, and we are looking forward to even more Shows, and talents, under his leadership.
Alle Bilder beigestellt © Universität für angewandte Kunst
© Christoph Liebentritt
To glimpse behind the stage, scroll through the images by the young photographer Christoph Liebentritt for C-Heads magazine